How Taiwan is revitalizing its military heritage

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The Fab City movement continues to expand, all around the world. Asian communities have been particularly active recently (Summits in Bali and Bhutan, Hoi An, Kamakura, Kerala…) and Taiwanese actors are becoming increasingly involved in this dynamic, mainly thanks to a first partnership between the National Taiwan University and Fab City Grand Paris. A micro team, made up of Estela Ching and Adrien Malguy, keeps exploring this ecosystem particularly through issues linked to the revitalization of industrial heritage, one of the pillars of the Fab City movement. This article sums up an urban characteristic related to Taiwanese history: the Juàn Cūn settlements.

Treasure Hill, Taipei City. Credits: Public Domain

Once considered the world’s manufacturer, the island is known for its complex history and political situation. From the late 19th to mid-20th, Taiwan has generated hundreds of military sites, some built by Japanese occupants, others by local governments. Often seen as the most progressive country in Asia with achievements such as legalizing same-sex marriage, establishing the world’s first transgender Ministry, providing official support to aboriginal tribes, and implementing a high-class public trash system management, Taiwan is now on the side of the so-called “developed countries.” In the early 2000s, the country began revitalizing its industrial heritage, including military villages and bases. The most famous examples are Treasure Hill (寶藏巖), the flagship of “urban acupuncture” and C-lab in Taipei, and the Rainbow Village(彩虹眷村, located near Taichung.

Rainbow Village, Taichung City. Credits: @Fcuk1203/Public Domain

What are we talking about, exactly?

We are talking about 眷村 (“Jiàncūn”), sometimes called 國民國軍眷村 (“Kuómíng Guójūn Jiàncūn”), which refers to the military villages built in the mid-20th century all over Taiwan. Some of them were planned and even built during the Japanese occupation, but most of them were created right after the Chinese Civil War (1949). At this time, the KMT party left mainland China to retreat to the island of Taiwan, bringing with him over two million refugees — who were in quick need of places to stay. These residential constructions expanded throughout the island, from urban to rural areas, and became communities with essential facilities for everyone in need. Then, the Nationalist government quickly turned these sites into dormitories dedicated to hosting military personnel from various branches (navy, army, air force) and their families. This situation wasn’t supposed to last; the KMT aimed to come back to China and defeat Mao and the CCP, but it never happened, and these unique buildings now belong to the heritage of the Taiwanese people and hopefully to their future.

Credits: @rambletaipei
http://rambletaipei.blogspot.com/2016/07/blog-post.html

There were up to 886 military villages spread on the island. However, due to aging military personnel, a political lack of interest in heritage, and rural exodus, inhabitants started to leave these sites, leading to a gradual decline of the demographics. Plus, many of these villages were rebuilt or demolished under urban planning.

Some were transformed into high-rise residential buildings, while others disappeared altogether.

Currently, Taiwan still preserves over 100 military villages, each presenting a diverse style of settlement with their own stories, artifacts, architectural specifics, and different stages of development. Some of these sites have undergone cultural preservation and urban renewal, transformed into art villages or tourist attractions. Meanwhile, others are still awaiting new projects.

Hengke Road Dependents Village 橫科路眷村. Credits: @作家

80 years of transition

Here are the main historical stages of Taiwan’s renewal:

Retreat and Settlement (1949). The outcome of the Chinese Civil War led to the retreat of the Republic of China government to Taiwan in 1949. Many military personnel and their families followed the government to Taiwan, necessitating proper housing. The government began constructing Military Dependents’ Villages across various locations to address the housing issue, providing accommodation, education, and medical services.

Economic Development and Transition (1950s-1970s). Taiwan initiated economic reforms in the 1950s, driving industrialization and modernization. During this phase, Military Dependents’ Villages changed. Originally temporary settlements, they gradually became permanent communities and expanded to urban outskirts. These villages also began facing challenges like inadequate infrastructure and environmental issues.

Social Transformation and Restructuring (1980s-1990s). By the 1980s, Taiwan entered a phase of political democratization, leading to shifts in societal values. Many Military Dependents’ Villages faced economic and social issues, prompting government plans for their restructuring. These plans encompassed improvements in housing, infrastructure, and employment opportunities.

Cultural Preservation and Regeneration (2000s onwards). With urbanization progressing, some villages faced the prospect of demolition. However, villages with historical and cultural value were reevaluated, becoming subjects of preservation and regeneration. The government and social groups transformed these villages into art villages, cultural hubs, and tourist attractions, attracting visitors and artists while retaining their unique historical character.

Now what?

In recent years, the Taiwanese government actively promoted urban renewal projects, affecting the areas of Military Dependents’ Villages. Some villages underwent renovations and redevelopment, becoming modern communities offering diverse housing, commercial and cultural facilities. These renewal projects aimed to enhance living environments and better align the villages with the needs of modern cities.

Some sites still face the risk of demolition due to urban planning. Fortunately, with the promotion of the Ministry of Culture and the efforts of cultural heritage units in various counties and cities to protect them, military villages and many old houses can be taken over by local governments (municipalities and administrative regions). In most cases, these places get museumized and aim to value their heritage through their artifacts. In other cases, the village goes through a more hybrid format. The process is at its core quite simple: restoring the frontage of the buildings and the interiors while keeping some objects from the past life of the building (machines, beams, pictures, posters…, etc.) and then adding new activities powered by young entrepreneurs or non-governmental organizations (NGOs). Like Western countries, it often ends up with concept stores, coffee shops, restaurants, or exhibition places, sometimes all together. Some collectives open new paths through “place-making” practices. They bring together direct neighbors, citizens, and local administrations to explore and challenge the (future) uses of the concerned site.

Some examples

We have made a map to share some references, although not all sites are included. Below, in this article, we picked three exciting sites:

📍Link to Google Map

全台眷村 Military Villages in Taiwan · Estela Ching Lin

Taiwuxincun Village

📍Taoyuan City, Daxi District

Taiwuxincun Village, Taoyuan City. Credits: @taoyuantravel, Taoyuan City Government

In the past, the dormitory was assigned to military dependents stationed in Kinmen who participated in the August 23 artillery battle. Therefore, it was named after Taiwu Mountain, the landmark of Kinmen. There is also an “823 artillery battle story hall” in the village. The detached courtyard is a military-dependent village with a more modern residential form. In addition to continuing to preserve and promote historical images, it plans to settle in many arts, cultural creations, and specialty restaurants to create a multi-complex space.

Particularly nearby is the Daxi Old Street, which is adjacent to the Dahan River. During the flourishing period of tea and camphor industries, the Dahan River was an important trade channel connecting Taoyuan mountainous areas with the major trading ports of Taipei and Tamsui, thus developing into a very mature and lively commercial district. The old street still retains its traditional street appearance. When strolling on the street, one can see the carvings on the buildings and window frames with the names of the owners and tea shops, and the Daxi Old Tea Factory, a tea manufacturing factory, is also located in the nearby area. Coming here is like taking a time machine and being immersed in the glorious era of the “Tea Gold”.

Credits: @snowhy.tw

Guangfu New Village

📍Taichung, Wufeng District

Guangfu New Village, Taichung City. Credits: @Taichung City Government Tourism and Travel Bureau

Guangfu Village was the first new town in early Taiwan. In the past, Guangfu Village was the family dormitory for employees of the Education Department, Health Department, and printing factory of the provincial government. Funds from US aid support the implementation of the ‘Garden City’ concept, which involves designing and integrating work and residential areas to create a living space with low population density and a high ratio of green space.

Credits: @Wikipedia

Farewell 886-Cultural Park of Taiwan Military Veteran Village

📍Kaohsiung, Zuoying District

Farewell 886-Cultural Park of Taiwan Military Veteran Village, Kaohsiung City.
Credits: @許傑

It is currently the most significant military-dependent village cultural landscape area in Taiwan. The whole area is mainly composed of 4 buildings, covering the military-dependent village culture of the army, sea, and air, and various cultural relics of the year are exhibited occasionally. In addition, the concept of “living instead of nursing” has been introduced to recruit residents, hoping that those who have dreams and love the village can give new life to the old house.

Credits: @Nice拔拔旅遊趣

Heritage as a resource and a tool for the future

These military villages can be seen as the black box of Taiwan. They appeared at the birth of the nation, under sensitive and painful circumstances, then became neglected for decades, and now gained interest again, from all parts. Somehow we can say these sites crystallize the Taiwanese situation, from sensitive topics and inner issues (identity dilemmas, industrial and social heritage, fragility against natural disasters, housing issues…) to amazing opportunities to stay on a both democratic and productive path (fab labs, urban agriculture, industry 4.0, recycle store, second hand shops…).

This trend triggers the Fab City Movement, as it totally merges with the fields we challenge. Are these places intended to disappear? Should everything just be museumized? Are there other ways to turn these hybrid spaces into productive, resilient and circular places?

In other words: could one of these sites be a future Fab City Hub?

Adrien, Fab City Grand Paris & Estela, National Taiwan University.

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Fab City Foundation supports a global effort to develop locally productive and globally connected cities. Read our blog on Medium: blog.fab.city